October 1, 2026
"We lost all the memories," Simone Salustri told Bay News 9.
He was talking about Nonno Umberto, the Italian seafood steakhouse he and his wife Amber have run on St. Armands Circle for almost 30 years, and about the two 2024 hurricanes that flooded it out. The Salustris rebuilt from the studs, reopened at the end of December, and this year had their best sales since the restaurant opened, according to recent reporting from Bay News 9. It is the kind of story Sarasota likes to tell about itself: a family business survives a storm and comes back stronger on the most photographed circle in the city.
That story is true, and it is also not where the interesting change is happening this fall. Three miles north, around North Tamiami Trail, in a stretch with no marble statues, no Circus Ring of Fame plaques, and no trolley stop, three businesses opened or are about to open within about six weeks of each other, including one a short drive over on North Lockwood Ridge Road. None of them got a press conference. None of them are backed by a developer. That is worth more attention than it's getting.
North Tamiami Trail through this part of the city is mostly what you'd expect from a state highway: strip plazas, a car wash, the kind of storefronts that turn over every few years without anyone outside the neighborhood noticing. Ringling College sits along it. So does a stretch that most Sarasota residents drive through on the way to somewhere with better parking.
That's the corridor where Two Shores Cafe opened in early September at 7321 North Tamiami Trail. Owners Valeria Bobra and Milton Rodriguez are both from Uruguay, and the bakery and coffee shop they built is centered on the pastries, breads, and coffee traditions they grew up with, a concept that hadn't had a dedicated storefront on this side of town before. Their grand opening ran a simple promotion: free coffee and a pastry for anyone who walked in.
A few miles south, at 2805 North Tamiami Trail in the Indian Beach-Sapphire Shores neighborhood, a French all-day café called Comptoir is finishing buildout in the space that used to hold Shelf Indulgence Used Book Cafe, a well-liked spot that closed and left the storefront empty. Chef Gregory Desvenain and co-owner Cemantha Crain are targeting an October 5 opening, according to Sarasota Magazine. Desvenain moved to Sarasota in 2010 and started an importing company called Wines of Provence, built partly on his belief that the area needed more good rosé. When the pandemic cost that business its contracts, he went back to construction work and later helped build out the Lakewood Ranch location of C'est La Vie, the downtown French bakery. Comptoir is his own concept, not someone else's buildout: café tables and counter seating for about 24 people inside, another 20 outside, an eight-seat chef's table in the front window, and design cues from Art Nouveau anchored by a framed French flag dated to 1903. The lunch item Desvenain is most excited about is a sandwich called Le Petit Vendôme, ham, Normandy butter, and cornichons on a baguette, priced around $15. Take-home dinners will include duck confit and a beef Bourguignon meant to feed two for about $22 to $24, served with pasta from a local pasta maker.
A short drive over on North Lockwood Ridge Road, John Papandrea is opening Dominick's Family Pizza, a 12 to 15 seat pizzeria in a 1,500 square foot space built entirely around his family's recipes. New York-style round pizzas, Sicilian square pies, strombolis, pinwheels, chicken cutlet sandwiches, housemade mozzarella sticks, and zucchini patties based on his grandmother's recipe. Rather than open the doors and hope, Papandrea is running a soft-opening period of reservation-based tastings first, using the feedback to train staff before moving into regular service.
Three businesses, each with its own ownership group. No shared landlord, no shared marketing plan, no ribbon-cutting with a county commissioner. Just a nearby cluster of streets where three independent businesses decided to bet on the neighborhood in the same season.
The bigger, more visible growth story in Sarasota right now runs on a completely different clock. Sarasota Square, the redevelopment of the old mall site at U.S. 41 and Beneva Road, is anchored by a Whole Foods and backed by Torburn Partners and Jamestown, the firm known for Chelsea Market and Ponce City Market. Confirmed tenants already include HomeSense, Chipotle, CAVA, Warby Parker, and Charles Schwab. It is a real project with real momentum. It is also not opening its first phase until the first quarter of 2027, based on the developer's own May 2026 announcement.
The same week Comptoir was finishing its buildout, the city held a grand opening for Aspire on 10th, a 157-unit apartment community in the Rosemary District that includes more than 30 units set aside as attainable housing under the state's Live Local Act. That kind of opening gets a ribbon and a news crew.
What's happening along North Tamiami Trail and nearby North Lockwood Ridge Road doesn't get either. It gets three independently owned businesses: their owners put their own money into leases, menus, and build-outs, and the businesses are already serving customers or weeks from doing so, while the headline projects are still counting down to 2027 and beyond. If you're trying to read where Sarasota's food scene is actually moving right now, as opposed to where it will be in eighteen months, this area is a better instrument than the press releases.
If your daily errands already run along this part of Tamiami Trail, near Ringling College or in Indian Beach-Sapphire Shores, you can get a Uruguayan pastry and coffee at Two Shores Cafe this week. In a few days you'll be able to sit at an eight-seat counter in a converted bookstore and order a sandwich built around ham and Normandy butter. Not long after that, you'll be able to walk into a fifteen-seat pizzeria and order a Sicilian square from a recipe that predates the shop itself.
None of that required a master plan. It required owners willing to look at a stretch of highway other people just drive through and decide it was worth staying open on.
If you've noticed another storefront changing hands along this stretch of North Tamiami Trail, or you're curious what else is shifting in the neighborhoods around it, Julie Shaw is always glad to compare notes.
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